Frequently Asked Questions

FDM stands for Fused Deposition Modeling. It is the most common type of consumer 3D printing. The printer melts a plastic filament and deposits it layer by layer on a build plate, building up the object from the bottom up. FDM printers like the Bambu Lab A1, Creality Ender 3, and Prusa MK4 use this method. It is the right choice for most hobbyist, cosplay, and functional print applications.

FDM printers melt plastic filament and build objects layer by layer. Resin printers (MSLA/SLA) use UV light to cure liquid resin into solid form. FDM is cheaper to run, more beginner-friendly, and handles larger prints. Resin produces finer surface detail and is better suited to jewelry and highly detailed miniature figures. Most OreKo models are designed and tested on FDM printers. See our FDM vs Resin guide for a full comparison.

No. Most hobbyist printers simply download ready-made STL files and slice them for printing. Design skills only matter if you want to create original models from scratch. OreKo models on Cults3D are fully designed, sliced, tested, and documented — you download the file, open it in your slicer, and print. No design knowledge required.

Print time depends on the size of the object, the layer height, and the speed settings on your printer. Small pieces like mana chips or miniature window components take 30-60 minutes. A full deck box typically takes 2-4 hours. Large functional prints like the XL Mold Box walls take around 4 hours for a batch of five. Bambu Lab printers at fast mode reduce these times significantly compared to older printers.

Supports are temporary printed structures that hold up overhanging sections of a model during printing. They are removed after printing and often leave marks on the surface. A no-supports design means the STL file has been oriented and engineered so that no overhangs require support material. Every OreKo model is tested for support-free printing in the orientations provided. See our full guide: What Does No Supports Needed Actually Mean?

Infill is the internal structure printed inside a solid-looking model. 0% infill is hollow. 100% infill is completely solid. Most prints work well at 10-25% infill for functional parts. Small detail pieces like mana chips and miniature window components benefit from 100% infill because they are small enough that solid fill adds only minutes to print time while making the piece substantially stronger. See our Complete Infill Guide for a detailed breakdown.

PLA (Polylactic Acid) is the most widely used FDM filament. It is plant-based, easy to print, available in hundreds of colors, and works on virtually every FDM printer. Use PLA for deck boxes, dollhouse miniatures, cosplay props, and any model that will not be exposed to high heat or significant mechanical stress. All OreKo models are designed and tested with standard PLA at 0.4mm nozzle diameter. See our PLA vs PETG guide.

PLA is easier to print, produces crisper surface detail, and is available in more colors including specialty finishes. PETG is more flexible, more impact-resistant, and handles higher temperatures (up to ~80°C vs PLA’s ~60°C). PETG is better for parts that will be handled roughly, exposed to heat, or need to flex slightly. PLA is better for display pieces, miniatures, and anything where surface quality matters most. For the multi-material PLA/PETG pin trick on the Lollipop Chainsaw chain links, see the model page for details.

Silk PLA has a semi-gloss, metallic-like sheen that produces a polished surface finish straight off the printer. It looks excellent on display pieces like the Dollhouse Balcony Railing Set where the light-reflecting surface mimics stone or cast iron. Avoid silk PLA for cosplay props you plan to paint — the smooth surface does not bond well to primer or acrylic paint. Use matte PLA instead for anything that will be painted.

Matte PLA has a microscopically rougher surface than standard or silk PLA. That surface texture gives primer and acrylic paint a mechanical bond to grip onto, making paint adhere far more reliably. For cosplay props like the Lollipop Chainsaw chain links that will be painted to look like metal, matte black PLA is the recommended starting filament. Standard PLA requires more sanding before paint will stick. See our full guide: Why Matte Filament Is Best for Cosplay Prints You Plan to Paint.

Yes. Filaments containing carbon fiber, glass fiber, glow-in-the-dark particles, metal fill, or wood fill are abrasive. Running them through a brass nozzle will erode the inside of the nozzle, widening it over time and degrading dimensional accuracy. Switch to a hardened steel nozzle before printing any abrasive filament. A hardened steel nozzle costs $10-25 and lasts far longer than a brass nozzle under abrasive use. Standard PLA, PETG, and ABS are safe in brass nozzles. See our full breakdown: 3D Printer Nozzle Sizes Explained.

Standard white or cream PLA at 0.12mm layer height gives excellent detail for most dollhouse pieces. For a premium finish on display pieces like the Dollhouse Balcony Railing Set, silk marble white PLA produces a surface that genuinely resembles stone or cast iron at viewing distance. The silk sheen creates micro-shadows in the balustrade geometry that make the piece look dimensional and realistic. Matte PLA works well for pieces you plan to paint afterward.

OreKo is a small family-run maker business based in South Florida. Every model in the catalog has been designed, physically printed, and tested before publishing. The print settings documented on each product page come from real-world testing on Bambu Lab and Creality printers, not generic recommendations.

Yes — every single one. The photos on each Cults3D listing and on this website are photographs of real printed results, not renders. Settings like layer height, infill, and wall count are the exact values used during testing. Several models have been updated after buyer feedback: the Lollipop Chainsaw links added rotating chain versions, the Miniature Window with Planter added 1:12 scale, thicker wall, and wider planter variants, and the Dollhouse Balcony added a double-bevel top and short version.

OreKo models are primarily designed and tested on the Bambu Lab X1C and A1. Several models including the XL Mold Box and Dollhouse Balcony Railing have also been tested on the Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo. All STL files are compatible with any FDM printer — Bambu 3MF files are pre-configured for Bambu Lab hardware but the STL versions work on Prusa, Creality, or any standard FDM machine.

The best way to reach us is through the Contact page on this website. You can also message directly on Cults3D via the model listing page. We respond to all questions and have updated models based on buyer feedback — if something is not printing correctly, reach out and we will help troubleshoot.

In 1:12 scale, one unit of the model equals 12 of the same units in real life. A real door that is 80cm wide becomes approximately 6.7cm in 1:12. This is the most common standard dollhouse scale worldwide. The OreKo Refrigerator Side-by-Side model and the dedicated 1:12 version of the Miniature Window with Planter are designed for this scale. See our full explanation: 1:12 Scale Explained.

In 1:6 scale, one unit equals six real-world units — twice the size of 1:12. This scale is used for larger collector dolls and fashion doll houses. The OreKo Miniature Windows with Working Shutters Set is designed for 1:6 scale. It can be scaled to 50% in your slicer for approximate 1:12 size, though 0.08mm layer height is recommended at that smaller scale for clean detail.

The shutters pivot on hinge pins made from standard 1.75mm filament — the same filament already on your spool. Cut a piece to the hinge barrel length, align the shutter in the frame slot, and push the pin through. The holes are sized to 1.75mm so the pin holds with a light interference fit. No glue required. The shutters open and close smoothly. Printing at 0.12mm layer height gives the hinge holes the dimensional accuracy needed for clean operation. See the Miniature Windows product page for the full assembly walkthrough.

For best results on dollhouse and miniature prints, use 0.12mm layer height for most components and 0.08mm for the finest detail pieces. At 0.20mm, fine architectural details like window molding, balustrade posts, and shutter slats lose definition. At 0.12mm those same details come out sharp and clean. The extra print time is measured in minutes on small pieces and is worth the quality improvement. See our full guide: Best Layer Height for 3D Printing Miniatures.

Yes. 3D printed PLA takes acrylic paint well, especially with primer. For best paint adhesion, spray two to three light coats of filler primer before applying color. Matte PLA bonds to primer more readily than silk PLA. For the Dollhouse Balcony Railing, many builders prefer to leave it unpainted in silk marble white PLA — the sheen mimics stone naturally. For pieces that will be painted, print in matte white or matte grey for the best color accuracy.

The Bambu Lab A1 Mini is the best beginner FDM printer available today. It has automatic bed leveling and calibration, an intuitive slicer (Bambu Studio), fast print speeds, and optional AMS Lite for multi-color printing. It produces excellent results on all OreKo models straight out of the box with minimal setup. For a detailed breakdown, see our Bambu Lab A1 Mini Review.

Yes. OreKo models with included 3MF files are specifically pre-configured for Bambu Lab printers — the X1C, A1, and A1 Mini. Open the 3MF file in Bambu Studio and filament color assignments, print settings, and plate layouts are already set up. Just swap in your filament choices and slice. All STL files also work on any other FDM printer using standard slicer settings.

Yes. All OreKo STL files print on any standard FDM printer including Creality Ender 3, Prusa MK4, Prusa MINI+, and any other machine. The Bambu Studio 3MF files are Bambu-specific, but the STL files import into PrusaSlicer, Cura, or Bambu Studio without issue. Use the print settings documented on each model page — they apply regardless of which printer you are using.

AMS stands for Automatic Material System — Bambu Lab’s multi-filament loader that holds up to four filament spools and switches between them automatically during a print. You do not need an AMS for any OreKo model. Every model includes separate STL files for each component so you can print pieces individually in different filament colors on a single-color printer. The AMS simply makes multi-color printing faster and automated on Bambu hardware.

Most OreKo models fit on a 200 x 200mm bed or smaller. The XL Mold Box 240mm version requires a 256 x 256mm bed (Bambu Lab A1, X1C, P1S). The Lollipop Chainsaw long link version requires a 220 x 220 x 250mm bed. The flat individual link version of the chain and all dollhouse and card game models fit on any standard print bed.

Matte PLA is the best starting filament for any cosplay prop you plan to paint. Its microscopically rough surface bonds to primer and acrylic paint without requiring heavy sanding. Standard PLA also works with proper surface prep. Avoid silk PLA for painted props — the smooth surface repels primer. For metallic-looking chain links like the Lollipop Chainsaw chain, matte black PLA gives the most convincing base for metallic dry-brush finishing. See our full painting guide: Why Matte Filament Is Best for Cosplay Prints.

The most reliable method for a metallic prop finish is the matte base plus dry-brush technique. Print in matte black PLA, apply two to three coats of grey filler primer, then dry-brush Rub n Buff or metallic acrylic paint over the raised surfaces. The matte black base remains visible in the recesses, creating natural shadow depth. The metallic highlights on raised surfaces read as real metal at convention viewing distance. Seal with matte varnish to protect the finish.

Yes. The Chainsaw-Links-Flat-Perfect-fit and the 487 file versions are designed specifically for an articulated rotating chain. The Perfect Fit version uses precision joint tolerances so links snap together and hold position while still allowing rotation. Print at 0.12mm layer height and 100% infill using a lines pattern for the dimensional accuracy the joints need. The final version includes a small groove limiting how far the top clip travels, creating a controlled articulation range. See the Lollipop Chainsaw Chain Links page for the full file breakdown.

Use the Long Link version for the straight flat sides of the chainsaw bar — the two long runs where the chain does not need to bend. This requires a 220 x 220 x 250mm or larger print bed. Use the flat individual link version for the curved tip section and any area that needs to wrap around a curve. The flat version prints on any printer regardless of bed size and is designed to flex into curves without snapping.