How to Slice a 3D Model
Slicing is the step between your 3D model file and your printer. It is where you set every print parameter that affects quality, strength, and speed. Understanding your slicer is the fastest path to better prints.
What Is a Slicer?
A slicer is software that takes your 3D model file and converts it into a set of instructions your printer can follow. The name comes from what the software does: it slices the three-dimensional model into hundreds or thousands of horizontal layers, then calculates the exact path the printer nozzle must travel to deposit material for each one.
The output of a slicer is a G-code file — a text file full of printer commands like move here, heat to this temperature, extrude this much material. Your printer reads the G-code and follows it line by line.
The slicer is also where you make all the decisions that define how your print will turn out. Layer height, infill density, support structures, print speed, temperature — all of it lives in the slicer, not in the model file.
The Most Popular Slicers
Most are free. The right choice depends on your printer.
Bambu Studio
Designed for Bambu Lab printers. Fast, polished, and incredibly capable. Handles multi-color AMS setups, 3MF files with pre-configured plates, and cloud printing natively. OreKo 3MF files are pre-configured for Bambu Studio — open, assign filament colors, and slice. The best slicer experience available if you own a Bambu printer.
Best for: Bambu Lab X1C, A1, A1 Mini, P1S, P2S
PrusaSlicer
Open-source, deeply configurable, and trusted by the maker community. Works with any FDM printer via custom printer profiles. Excellent support detection, variable layer height, and modifier meshes for advanced control. The foundation that Bambu Studio was built from. If you do not own a Bambu printer, PrusaSlicer is the most capable free option.
Best for: Prusa MK4, MINI+, any non-Bambu FDM printer
Ultimaker Cura
The most widely used slicer in the world by sheer install count. Massive library of printer profiles, beginner-friendly interface with an expert mode hiding deeper settings. Excellent plugin ecosystem. Works with virtually every FDM printer. The right choice if your printer is not Bambu or Prusa and you want a large community for support.
Best for: Creality Ender series, Anycubic, generic FDM printers
The Slicing Process Step by Step
- Import your model. Drag the STL or 3MF file into the slicer. The model appears on a virtual build plate at the correct scale.
- Orient the model. Rotation affects which surfaces sit on the build plate, which faces overhang, and where layer lines run. Good orientation reduces supports and improves strength.
- Set your print profile. Choose layer height, nozzle temperature, bed temperature, print speed, infill percentage, and wall count. Most slicers have preset profiles (Standard, Quality, Fast) as starting points.
- Add supports if needed. The slicer shows overhang angles and can auto-generate support structures. OreKo models are designed so supports are never required in the provided orientations.
- Slice. Click the slice button. The software calculates every toolpath for every layer. Modern slicers show a layer-by-layer preview you can scrub through to inspect before printing.
- Export and print. Save the G-code to an SD card or USB drive, or send it directly via WiFi on connected printers like Bambu Lab machines.
The Most Important Slicer Settings
Layer Height
How thick each printed layer is. Lower values (0.08mm, 0.12mm) produce smoother surfaces and sharper fine detail. Higher values (0.20mm, 0.30mm) print faster with slightly more visible layer lines. For most OreKo models, 0.12mm gives the best balance of quality and speed. Logo caps and mana chips print at 0.08mm for maximum sharpness. Box bodies print at 0.20mm where speed matters more than surface finish.
Infill Density
What percentage of the interior of the print is solid vs hollow. 0% is completely hollow. 100% is completely solid. Most functional prints work well at 15-25% infill. Small detail pieces like mana chips use 100% infill because the print time difference is minimal but the strength improvement is significant.
Wall Count (Perimeters)
How many passes the nozzle makes around the outer edge of each layer before filling the interior. More walls means a thicker, stronger outer shell. 2 walls is standard for display pieces. 6 walls produces a near-solid outer shell for parts that need structural rigidity — like the body of a deck box that holds 100 cards.
Print Speed
How fast the printhead moves. Faster speeds mean shorter print times but can reduce quality on fine detail and increase the risk of stringing or layer adhesion issues at higher speeds. Bambu Lab printers manage speed automatically and adapt per-layer, which is one reason they produce consistent results at high speeds where other printers would degrade.
Temperature
Nozzle and bed temperature depend on the filament. PLA typically prints at 190-220°C nozzle and 55-60°C bed. PETG runs higher at 230-250°C nozzle and 70-85°C bed. Your filament brand’s recommended settings are the right starting point. Most slicers have per-filament profiles built in.
Continue Learning
Slicing comes right before printing. Here is what connects.
3D Modeling
Before you can slice a model, someone has to design it. Learn what goes into creating a printable 3D model and which software beginners use.
The Printing Process
What happens after you send the G-code to your printer. How FDM printers build objects layer by layer and what to watch for during a print.
Layer Height, Infill and Supports
A deeper dive into the three settings that most affect print quality, strength, and success rate.