What Is Infill?
Pick up a 3D printed object and it feels solid. But cut it in half and you will likely find it is anything but. The inside of most FDM prints is a sparse geometric pattern, not solid plastic. That pattern is infill.
Infill is the internal structure a slicer generates to fill the space inside a print. It supports the top surface layers, adds strength, and controls how much material the print uses. Change the infill density and you change the weight, strength, print time, and filament cost of every print you make.
Infill Density: What the Percentage Means
Infill density is expressed as a percentage. 0% means completely hollow inside. 100% means completely solid. Everything between is a balance of strength, weight, and speed.
10-15% is the sweet spot for most decorative and semi-functional prints. The walls handle structural strength and the infill mainly supports the top layers. Box bodies, mold frames, and display pieces all work well here.
20-40% adds meaningful strength for parts that take regular handling or light stress. Good for lids, hinged parts, and anything that gets picked up and put down frequently.
50-80% for mechanically stressed parts. Brackets, mounts, anything load-bearing.
100% for parts that need to be completely solid. Logo caps, coins, small detail pieces where infill percentage affects the sharpness of fine features.
Infill Patterns: Which One to Use
Lines / Rectilinear
Straight parallel lines. Fast to print, good for flat-topped prints. The default in most slicers and a solid choice for the majority of prints. Used for logo caps and coins at 100% infill.
Grid
Two sets of crossing lines. Slightly stronger than lines in multiple directions. Good general-purpose choice for most prints at standard densities.
Gyroid
A wavy three-dimensional pattern. Excellent strength in all directions, handles compression and shear well. Slightly slower to print but worth it for functional parts that take stress from multiple angles.
Honeycomb
Hexagonal cells. Strong and efficient. Looks impressive if you ever cut a print open. Good for parts needing lateral strength. Slightly slower than lines but more isotropic.
Why Small Parts Need 100% Infill
This is one of the most common beginner mistakes: printing small parts at the same infill density as large ones.
On a large deck box body, 15% infill means the walls carry the structural load and the sparse interior is fine. On a tiny logo cap or coin, 15% infill means there is almost nothing inside the print. The top surface layers have no support underneath them, which causes the surface to sag slightly between infill lines, blurring fine detail and weakening the piece.
For any part smaller than roughly 5x5cm with fine surface detail, use 100% infill. The print time difference on a small piece is measured in minutes, not hours, and the quality improvement is significant.
Infill Settings for OreKo Models
Here is how infill is set across the catalog:
Deck box body: 10-15% infill, grid or lines pattern. Walls carry the load.
Deck box logo caps: 100% infill, lines pattern. Ensures crisp logo detail.
Deck box coins and keychains: 100% infill, lines. Small solid pieces.
Dollhouse refrigerator body: 15% infill. Large print, walls handle structure.
Miniature windows: 100% infill on small shutter pins and fine detail parts.
Mold box frame: 15% infill for most sizes. The walls provide the rigidity needed for casting.
Delivery door sign: 15% standard. Flat panel print, walls are sufficient.
These settings are documented on each OreKo product page alongside the layer height and wall count recommendations.
Every OreKo Model Comes with Recommended Settings
Infill, layer height, walls, and supports. Documented for every model so your first print comes out right.
