Tips, tutorials, model spotlights, and 3D printing deep dives from the OreKo team. Whether you are just starting out or fine-tuning your setup, there is something here for you.
Deep dives into individual OreKo models. Print settings, assembly tips, filament recommendations, and what makes each design tick.
Step-by-step tutorials on slicing, print settings, filament selection, bed adhesion, post-processing, and more. Written for real printers, not perfect conditions.
Card game setups, cosplay builds, dollhouse projects, and community prints. We cover the culture around the hobby, not just the hardware.
The extruder system on your 3D printer determines how filament gets pushed to the hotend. Two configurations dominate: direct drive (extruder on the print head, right above the hotend) and Bowden (extruder mounted remotely, filament fed through a PTFE tube). Both work well; they make different trade-offs that matter for specific use cases. Direct Drive:…
Most 3D print failures come from the same handful of causes. Bed adhesion failure is the most common. Filament issues (wet or tangled) are second. Settings mismatches between the slicer profile and actual filament are third. Address these systematically and your failure rate drops dramatically. Here’s the checklist. Before Every Print: The 3-Step Check 1.…
The Filament Choice That Makes Painting Ten Times Easier If you have ever tried to paint a 3D printed cosplay prop and found the paint beading up, peeling off, or looking inconsistent no matter what you did, the problem was probably not your paint or your technique. It was your filament choice. Shiny and silk…
June 1, 2026 — Official Reveal The A2L is official. Here is what Bambu confirmed. Build volume: 330 × 320 × 325 mm. That is 105% more print space than the A1. We predicted the H2S plate footprint and landed within millimeters. A full-scale helmet in one piece. A batch of 40 fidget toys in…
Ironing is a slicer feature that runs the hot nozzle over the top surface of a print after completing the normal top layers, at a very slow speed with minimal extrusion. The nozzle heat slightly remelts and flattens the top surface, filling micro-gaps between extrusion lines and producing a noticeably smoother finish than the standard…
FDM prints have visible layer lines. That’s the nature of the technology. Getting rid of them, or reducing them enough that they’re not visible at normal viewing distance, is achievable through a combination of slicer settings and post-processing techniques. Here’s every method ranked by effort and result. Method 1: Fine Layer Height (Easiest, No Post-Processing)…
Why Keeping Bambu Studio Current Matters Bambu Studio updates add new filament profiles, fix slicing bugs, and sometimes add printer support. More importantly, certain firmware updates for your printer require a minimum Studio version to work. If you skip Studio updates long enough, your printer firmware and your slicer can get out of sync and…
They Work on Different Printers The AMS and AMS Lite are not two versions of the same product where you pick the better one. They are designed for completely different Bambu Lab printers, and the two systems are not compatible with each other. Which one you need is determined by the printer you own or…
Supports-free STL files are one of the clearest signals of a well-designed file. Not every model can avoid them, but for hobby printing, a file that prints cleanly without supports saves time, materials, and the frustrating post-processing of removing support structures from visible surfaces. Here’s what to look for and why it matters enough to…
