Tips, tutorials, model spotlights, and 3D printing deep dives from the OreKo team. Whether you are just starting out or fine-tuning your setup, there is something here for you.
Deep dives into individual OreKo models. Print settings, assembly tips, filament recommendations, and what makes each design tick.
Step-by-step tutorials on slicing, print settings, filament selection, bed adhesion, post-processing, and more. Written for real printers, not perfect conditions.
Card game setups, cosplay builds, dollhouse projects, and community prints. We cover the culture around the hobby, not just the hardware.
The first layer of a 3D print is the most important layer in the entire print. It is the foundation everything else builds on. A first layer that bonds correctly to the bed means the print will succeed. A first layer that doesn’t means you’re watching an expensive ball of tangled filament form on your…
Long thin parts are among the most challenging FDM prints. The combination of small footprint, long span, and high surface-area-to-volume ratio makes them susceptible to warping, lifting at ends, and splitting along the length. Dollhouse railing sections, thin prop components, and elongated architectural details all fall into this category. Here are the specific techniques that…
Sister Liliya Bogomolova from The Outlast Trials Season 5 is one of the most technically ambitious cosplay subjects to come out of horror gaming in years. Concept artist Hugo Richard and 3D character artist Ziyang Tan built her design around a single terrifying game mechanic: she has a fully realized face on both sides of…
PETG sits between PLA and ABS in the material hierarchy: tougher than PLA, easier to print than ABS, more heat resistant than either. It is the material of choice when PLA isn’t strong enough or durable enough for the application and you don’t want to deal with ABS’s printing requirements. This guide covers the specific…
A living hinge is a thin flexible section of material that connects two rigid parts, allowing them to fold without a separate pivot mechanism. Printing them in FDM requires using the right material, the right thickness, and the right layer orientation. Done correctly, a living hinge in flexible filament or thin PETG flexes thousands of…
Silk PLA and matte PLA print at the same temperatures, on the same printers, using virtually the same slicer settings. The finished results look completely different. One comes out with a glossy, satin sheen that catches light dramatically. The other comes out flat and textured, taking primer and paint without any preparation. The choice between…
Snap-fit joints are connections that flex slightly on assembly and lock into place without screws, glue, or hardware. They are one of the most satisfying design features in FDM printing when they work correctly and one of the most frustrating when they don’t. Getting snap-fits right requires understanding the tolerance windows that make them click…
Wet PLA is one of those 3D printing problems that sneaks up on you. One week your prints look clean, smooth, and reliable. The next week, the same spool starts making weird popping sounds, the surface looks rough, the nozzle leaves wispy strings everywhere, and the finished part feels weaker than it should. It is…
When you print a multi-color model using the AMS system on a Bambu Lab printer, a separate small tower appears beside your model on the print plate. This is the purge tower. It exists to flush the previous color out of the nozzle before the new color starts printing on your model. Without it, every…
Removing a finished print from the bed should be simple: the part releases cleanly and comes off without damage. When it doesn’t, either the print is stuck too hard or too loose, and both have straightforward fixes. Here is the right technique for every situation. The Right Way: Let It Cool First The single most…
Gluing 3D printed parts together is one of the most common finishing tasks in FDM printing. Multi-part prints, repairs, and assemblies all need reliable adhesion between PLA, PETG, or other printed surfaces. The right adhesive depends on the joint size, the load it needs to carry, and how quickly you need it cured. Here is…
Top and bottom layers are the solid surface skins on the top and bottom of a 3D print. They’re separate from the walls and infill, and the number you set directly affects how solid and clean those surfaces look. Too few and you get gaps. Too many and you’re wasting material on overkill surface thickness.…
