Tips, tutorials, model spotlights, and 3D printing deep dives from the OreKo team. Whether you are just starting out or fine-tuning your setup, there is something here for you.
Deep dives into individual OreKo models. Print settings, assembly tips, filament recommendations, and what makes each design tick.
Step-by-step tutorials on slicing, print settings, filament selection, bed adhesion, post-processing, and more. Written for real printers, not perfect conditions.
Card game setups, cosplay builds, dollhouse projects, and community prints. We cover the culture around the hobby, not just the hardware.
June 1, 2026 — Official Reveal The A2L is official. Here is what Bambu confirmed. Build volume: 330 × 320 × 325 mm. That is 105% more print space than the A1. We predicted the H2S plate footprint and landed within millimeters. A full-scale helmet in one piece. A batch of 40 fidget toys in…
Ironing is a slicer feature that runs the hot nozzle over the top surface of a print after completing the normal top layers, at a very slow speed with minimal extrusion. The nozzle heat slightly remelts and flattens the top surface, filling micro-gaps between extrusion lines and producing a noticeably smoother finish than the standard…
FDM prints have visible layer lines. That’s the nature of the technology. Getting rid of them, or reducing them enough that they’re not visible at normal viewing distance, is achievable through a combination of slicer settings and post-processing techniques. Here’s every method ranked by effort and result. Method 1: Fine Layer Height (Easiest, No Post-Processing)…
Why Keeping Bambu Studio Current Matters Bambu Studio updates add new filament profiles, fix slicing bugs, and sometimes add printer support. More importantly, certain firmware updates for your printer require a minimum Studio version to work. If you skip Studio updates long enough, your printer firmware and your slicer can get out of sync and…
They Work on Different Printers The AMS and AMS Lite are not two versions of the same product where you pick the better one. They are designed for completely different Bambu Lab printers, and the two systems are not compatible with each other. Which one you need is determined by the printer you own or…
Supports-free STL files are one of the clearest signals of a well-designed file. Not every model can avoid them, but for hobby printing, a file that prints cleanly without supports saves time, materials, and the frustrating post-processing of removing support structures from visible surfaces. Here’s what to look for and why it matters enough to…
Every FDM print has a seam: the point where the printer starts and ends each perimeter loop. At this junction, there’s always a very slight imperfection where the extruder begins and stops depositing plastic. Where this seam lands on your print determines how visible it is. Seam placement is a slicer setting that controls this,…
The nozzle is the smallest part of your 3D printer and one of the most consequential. It controls feature detail, print speed, material compatibility, and how often you replace it. Most printers ship with a 0.4mm brass nozzle, which handles 90% of what most makers will ever need. But knowing when to change it, what…
The Most Powerful Free 3D Software on the Planet Blender is free. It is also used by professional animation studios, game developers, and VFX artists on major film productions. That combination is unusual in software, and it makes Blender one of the most remarkable tools available to makers and 3D printing enthusiasts. The trade-off is…
Print time is a real cost in 3D printing. A deck box that takes 4 hours on one machine takes 90 minutes on another with identical quality. If you’re not on a Bambu Lab machine, or you want to push what you have further, these are the settings changes that actually reduce print time without…
Elephant’s foot is the slight outward flare at the base of a 3D print where the first layer is wider than subsequent layers. It’s common, usually minor, and easy to fix once you understand what causes it. For parts that need precise dimensions at the base or need to fit into other pieces, fixing elephant’s…
An overhang is any part of a 3D model that extends outward from the base without support directly below it. The overhang angle is the angle measured from vertical, not horizontal. A 0-degree overhang is completely vertical (no overhang). A 90-degree overhang is completely horizontal (a flat ceiling). Most FDM printers handle 0-45 degrees without…
