Tips, tutorials, model spotlights, and 3D printing deep dives from the OreKo team. Whether you are just starting out or fine-tuning your setup, there is something here for you.
Deep dives into individual OreKo models. Print settings, assembly tips, filament recommendations, and what makes each design tick.
Step-by-step tutorials on slicing, print settings, filament selection, bed adhesion, post-processing, and more. Written for real printers, not perfect conditions.
Card game setups, cosplay builds, dollhouse projects, and community prints. We cover the culture around the hobby, not just the hardware.
A dice tower is a small structure you drop dice into that tumbles them through internal baffles and produces a random result in a tray at the bottom. They’re a tabletop gaming staple that most players buy once and use for years. Printing one yourself costs under $1 in filament and lets you match it…
A growing MTG collection quickly becomes a storage problem. Boxes stack up, sleeves get mixed, and finding a specific deck turns into a 10-minute hunt. 3D printing solves specific parts of this problem well and complements commercial storage solutions for the rest. Here’s how to use printed parts to bring order to a card collection…
You can buy an MTG deck box at any game store for $5-$25. You can also print one at home for $1-$3 in filament that looks better, fits your specific sleeve brand precisely, and matches your deck’s color identity. Here’s the honest comparison of both options so you can make the right choice for your…
You Don’t Need Expensive Software to Design 3D Models One of the most common misconceptions in 3D printing is that you need professional CAD software costing hundreds of dollars a year before you can design anything yourself. That has not been true for a long time. Today there is an excellent range of free 3D…
3D printing has shifted from a niche engineering tool to one of the most versatile hobby platforms available. For under $400, a machine in your home lets you make custom gaming accessories, cosplay props, replacement parts, dollhouse furniture, and display pieces. The barrier to starting is lower than ever and the community supporting it is…
The hotend is the heating assembly at the business end of an FDM printer that melts your filament and pushes it through the nozzle. It’s the most mechanically critical component of the print head, and understanding its parts helps you troubleshoot clogs, temperature issues, and extrusion problems faster when they occur. Parts of a Hotend…
A 3MF file is a 3D model format that stores geometry, print settings, material information, and sometimes color data all in one package. It’s the newer alternative to STL and, for most modern FDM printing workflows, it’s the better format. This guide explains what 3MF contains, how it differs from STL, and when you’d choose…
Pressure advance (also called Linear Advance on Marlin or Input Shaper compensation on some firmware) is a firmware feature that compensates for the delay between the extruder pushing filament and that pressure actually reaching the nozzle tip. It’s one of the reasons Bambu Lab printers print accurately at 500mm/s when older machines produce bulging corners…
Manual bed leveling means setting the gap between the nozzle and bed surface at multiple points so the nozzle is the same distance from the bed everywhere on the print surface. Most modern printers handle this automatically, but understanding how it works makes troubleshooting first layer issues faster when automatic leveling isn’t producing the right…
