Tips, tutorials, model spotlights, and 3D printing deep dives from the OreKo team. Whether you are just starting out or fine-tuning your setup, there is something here for you.
Deep dives into individual OreKo models. Print settings, assembly tips, filament recommendations, and what makes each design tick.
Step-by-step tutorials on slicing, print settings, filament selection, bed adhesion, post-processing, and more. Written for real printers, not perfect conditions.
Card game setups, cosplay builds, dollhouse projects, and community prints. We cover the culture around the hobby, not just the hardware.
The nozzle is the smallest part of your 3D printer and one of the most consequential. It controls feature detail, print speed, material compatibility, and how often you replace it. Most printers ship with a 0.4mm brass nozzle, which handles 90% of what most makers will ever need. But knowing when to change it, what…
The Most Powerful Free 3D Software on the Planet Blender is free. It is also used by professional animation studios, game developers, and VFX artists on major film productions. That combination is genuinely unusual in software, and it makes Blender one of the most remarkable tools available to makers and 3D printing enthusiasts. The trade-off…
Print time is a real cost in 3D printing. A deck box that takes 4 hours on one machine takes 90 minutes on another with identical quality. If you’re not on a Bambu Lab machine, or you want to push what you have further, these are the settings changes that actually reduce print time without…
Elephant’s foot is the slight outward flare at the base of a 3D print where the first layer is wider than subsequent layers. It’s common, usually minor, and easy to fix once you understand what causes it. For parts that need precise dimensions at the base or need to fit into other pieces, fixing elephant’s…
An overhang is any part of a 3D model that extends outward from the base without support directly below it. The overhang angle is the angle measured from vertical, not horizontal. A 0-degree overhang is completely vertical (no overhang). A 90-degree overhang is completely horizontal (a flat ceiling). Most FDM printers handle 0-45 degrees without…
Bambu Lab’s first layer calibration is one of its most important features and one that new owners sometimes skip or only run once. Running it correctly after setup and periodically thereafter is the single biggest factor in consistent first layer quality. Here’s exactly what it does and when to run it. What the Calibration Does…
Cleaning a Bambu Lab nozzle is a routine maintenance task that takes 5-10 minutes and resolves most partial clog and underextrusion issues. Bambu’s proprietary hotend makes the process slightly different from standard FDM nozzle cleaning, but it’s still straightforward once you know the steps. Method 1: Bambu Studio’s Built-In Clean Function The easiest starting point.…
Filament choice for dollhouse miniatures is different from filament choice for functional parts or cosplay props. At 1:12 scale, surface finish is everything. Details are tiny. The difference between a miniature that looks like a real object and one that reads as plastic often comes down to which filament you used and whether it was…
Building a complete 1:12 scale room with 3D printed parts is one of the most satisfying projects in the dollhouse hobby. Every element can be customised, printed to exact dimensions, and designed to fit your specific space. This guide walks through the full process from planning to finished room, with specific attention to how 3D…
